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Review: 1789′s New Summer Menu Makes Classic French More Approachable

July 1, 2010
1789 Restaurant

1789 Restaurant

For anyone who’s ever visited or lived in DC, just a mention of the restaurant 1789 strikes a nostalgic tone.  One naturally conjures an image of historic Georgetown, a dimly lit table surrounded by a handful of Washington’s power-brokers, and of course, dishes that make for local standard in classic French dining.  Even the restaurant’s name – 1789 – has historical significance and represents the year the city was founded.

All of this is to say that little has changed about the restaurant in its 70 year history.

While it may be true that the power-brokers and the historic setting aren’t going any where soon, there is a definite relaxation taking place at 1789 this summer. We can’t say it’ll last long — only until Sept. 15 to be precise — but we thoroughly enjoyed our first taste of it tonight in sampling the talented Chef Daniel Giusti’s new, very approachable summer menu.

The new menu is nothing to shake a stick at — ranging from stuffed summer squash blossoms and other light salads on down to braised pork shoulder and hanger steak.  None of these disappointed, but we found a few real standouts in the crispy pork belly (when is it ever a disappointment?), the day boat scallops, and the salmon belly rillettes.

Escargot with Puff Pastry

Escargot with Puff Pastry

A generous serving, the pork belly simply melts in the mouth and is paired nicely with a light fennel salad with lemon.  Scallops take a turn for earthy when paired with roasted red beets, mousseron mushrooms, foie gras and black truffles.  And as a first course, the salmon with creme fraiche and radishes is a wonderfully creative preparation of a classic French pairing.  But few things topped the escargot in a buttery herb sauce with flaky puff pastry.

Lest we forget dessert! Carolina Gold Rice Pudding, anyone?  Amazingly, it’s included with your choice of two items from the main menu, all for $35.  You can skip the dinner jacket as well – although the servers will still treat you like royalty (Ken – you and your team were amazing!).  All in all, it’s a fantastic opportunity to try a Washington landmark and taste the many talents of a great up and coming new chef.

To see 1789′s full summer menu, subject to changes daily, click here.  See bottom for dessert.

Click here to print the “Sizzling Summer Special” offer details, which must be presented to the server upon arrival.  Available through Sept. 15

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